Vermouth Service: Where to Enjoy it on the Rocks
What's old is new again. Vermouth Service is making a comeback.
Vermouth on the rocks
Named after the German word for “wormwood,” vermouth is a fortified wine with added botanicals, popularized in France and Italy. Many point to the 1786 concoction made by Italian herbalist Antonio Benedetto Carpano as the first true vermouth, which became the king's favorite and put Turin on the map for this bittersweet style.
Italian brands like Cinzano and Martini & Rossi are perhaps the best-known modern vermouths. The aperitif gained popularity across Europe, sipped on its own or used in cocktails like the Manhattan (created in 1882) and the Negroni (made in 1919).
Vermouth Around the World
“Hora del vermut” is a time-honored tradition in Spain, when friends gather together at a vermuteria for drinks and tapas before lunch. Argentina also has its own version of “vermouth hour.”
Stateside, vermouth has traditionally been relegated to a supporting role in cocktails. But that’s finally starting to change, with bars adapting “vermouth hours” or offering “vermouth service” where it’s the star of the show, served with tonic, soda, and fruit.
Vermouth brands have also focused their marketing on this style of drinking, which appeals to the low-proof crowd. Mommenpop, made from California wines with citrus notes, is part of a growing trend in the United States market. Laie is a craft vermouth made for sipping, as a nod to Spain’s vermouth legacy.
Where to Enjoy Vermouth Service in the United States
If you’re looking to experience vermouth in a new way, check out these vermouth-oriented bars around the country.
Bar Besito, Los Angeles, California
Vermouth on the rocks at Bar Besito, Credit John Troxell
At Bar Besito, meaning “little kiss,” director of operations Pierluc Dallaire serves vermouth on the rocks or with soda, garnished with an orange and an olive. The menu also includes vermouth-focused cocktails like a vermouth spritz with cava and soda and the Adonis, a half-and-half mixture of vermouth and Manzanilla sherry on ice.
“We try to feature interesting new producers alongside older classics so there's something for everybody,” he says. “Our best seller is currently the Partida Creus 'Muz' Vermut, a fun, lighter, fresh, and fruit-forward [vermouth]. We are [also] currently working with Dream Farm Wine based in Sonoma in making a special vermouth with a Tempranillo base and Californian aromatics.”
Bar Bibi, Savannah, Georgia
Bar Bibii Vermouth Service photo credit Abby Giles
The poolside lounge Bar Bibi at Savannah’s Hotel Bardo offers a taste of the Mediterranean instead of the usual frozen concoctions, including refreshing granita and the classic Aperol Spritz, best enjoyed with pizzettas. Vermouth service here is paired with frozen fruit and your choice of club soda, tonic water, or ginger ale.
“The intent was to separate vermouth from our assumption that vermouth only exists as a minor ingredient in major cocktails. By treating it as the tonic, as is done in Europe, we could create a lower ABV section of the cocktail menu without too much effort,” says Eben Klemm, VP of Beverage and Service for Left Lane, the hotel’s parent company. “I felt that choosing obscure but excellent brands would help to break guests' assumptions about vermouths. The Bordiga is as classic as you can find, herbal and complex, while the Mommenpops is as new-school as you can find, bright, citrusy, and clean."
Dante’s, New York, New York
Dante’s Vermouth Service photo credit Steve Freihon
The New York City institution Dante's is known for its vermouth service, offered daily between 2 and 5 pm for $15. The century-old Italian spot leans into traditional European ingredients, including vermouth from France.
“Our 'vermouth service' is simply Noilly Prat from the tap, poured over frozen grapes with a splash of Perrier and finished with a lemon expression. The vermouth’s natural salinity and bright citrus notes make it the perfect base for an aperitif,” says Linden Pride, Principal of Dante. “The frozen grapes act like ice cubes, keeping the drink beautifully chilled without dilution.”
Little Pep, Winston-Salem, North Carolina
Little Pep photo credit Stephanie Berbec
The pint-sized wine bar in central North Carolina, Little Pep, also highlights vermouths from Italy and Spain. They’re usually served in two-ounce portions with an olive and orange garnish, on the rocks or with soda.
“We were introduced to drinking vermouth on its own, rather than as part of a cocktail, when we visited Spain. It's a big part of their drinking culture and goes great with savory, salty snacks,” says co-owner Rebekah Rhoden.
El Lopo, San Francisco, California
El Lopo bar photo courtesy of El Lopo
San Francisco’s El Lopo has an entire menu of vermouth, ranging from selections from Spain and California to non-alcoholic Ghia. Guests can enjoy the standard setup, a glass with all the garnishes, but the bar also has a large format for sharing, where guests can mix their own combinations
“It comes with enough for four glasses and a spread of garnishes that we think go well with that vermouth, like various herbs, citrus twists, pickled things, preserved and fresh fruit, and even different types of ice,” says Daniel Azarkman, the bar’s self-described Satiation Facilitator. “My personal favorite vermouth combo is what we call a ‘dirty martini, hold the gin.’ It's an herbaceous dry vermouth poured over a frozen block of brine from anchovy-stuffed olives, with a burnt sprig of thyme and a lemon twist. We use Vya Whisper Dry Vermouth, made by Quady Wines in the Central Valley of California.”