Why Cinsault is Taking Center Stage
Cinsaut grapes in Luberon by Allie_Caulfield is licensed under CC BY 2.0.
Cinsault, “san so,” a grape from Southern France’s Languedoc region, is less well-known than its workhorse buddy carignan. Both play supporting roles these days in Rhone red blends, which feature the more temperamental and demanding syrah, along with grenache and mourvedre as the rock star components. Often spelled “cinsaut”, its bountiful, early and easily ripening crop puts it closest to grenache in terms of being the winemaker’s friend and ally even in difficult vintage conditions. Both are “bankers” the growers count on to round out a blend. The big difference, though, is rather than grenache’s friendly strawberry notes, and its richness and roundness from easily achieved high alcohol, cinsault is typically light, tart and earthy.
Cinsault also has softer tannins and is refreshing when served chilled, so it appeals to wine drinkers' changing tastes. With some exceptions, it’s also a relatively easy grape to cultivate and allows for unique expressions of terroir. Last but not least, it does well in hot and dry climates, so it is well-suited for climate change. No wonder it’s on the rise.
Bechthold Vineyard - Cinsaut - planted 1886" by Randy Caparoso is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.
Outside of France, cinsault has minimal plantings, with only 75 acres planted in California, for example. One third of that is found in Lodi’s Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1886 in phylloxera-resistant sandy soils, which are both dry farmed and organically farmed, and believed to be the oldest continuously farmed vineyard in Lodi. The vines here are head-trained (bush vines as they look like a bush rather than being trellised), with roots going down over 30 feet. They are incredibly labor-intensive to farm, but the age of these vines gives one of the grape’s most breathtaking, complex expressions in the world.
In addition to California, cinsault is produced as a varietal wine in Chile, South Africa and Lebanon.
Here are Planet Grape Wine Review’s top picks from these regions
White and Rose, California USA
Californian White and Rose Cinsault
2022 Birichino Blanc de Noir of Cinsault Vignes Centenaires Bechthold Vineyard Mokelumne River Lodi California USA 12.5%, $28
Light, fruity and tingly with notes of lemon curd, gingersnap, almond croissant and sea salt.
2023 Estate Crush Rose of Cinsaut Bechthold Vineyard Lodi California USA 12.3%, $21
Light, tart and dry with notes of citrus blossom, pear, strawberry, chorizo and nutmeg.
2023 Mother Vine by Shannon Ridge Rose High Valley Lake County California USA
13.5%, $38
Light, tingly and dry with notes of pink grapefruit, raspberry, sour cherry and peach.
2022 Onesta Rose of Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard Lodi California USA 11.8%, $25 Light, supple and dry with notes of red apple, sour cherry, fresh ginger and dried basil.
Red, California USA
Californian Red Cinsault
2021 Michael David Ancient Vine Cinsaut Bechthold Vineyard Lodi California USA 14%, $32
Full-bodied, gripping and dry with notes of red cherry, black cherry, pancetta, espresso, vanilla and chocolate truffle.
2019 Estate Crush Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard Lodi California USA 13.5%, $32
Mid-weight, fresh and dry with notes of sour cherry, plum, cedar, mushroom and tar.
2022 Frick Lucia Dry Creek Valley Sonoma California USA 12.7%, $37
Supple, plush, round and dry with notes of pomegranate, strawberry, red plum and vanilla bean.
2023 The Language of Yes Cinsault Syrah “En Passerillage” Central Coast California USA
15.3%, $75
Rich, punchy and ripe with notes of strawberry jam, stewed cherry, violet, pink rose, dark chocolate and vanilla.
2022 The Language of Yes “Cuvee Sinso” Red Wine Central Coast California USA
13.3%, $36
Lean, finely chewy, tart and dry with notes of black cherry, tomato paste, mushroom and carob.
2021 Onesta Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard Lodi California USA 14%, $40
Full, finely chewy and dry with notes of black cherry, sundried tomato, mushroom, grilled eggplant and peppercorn.
2019 Sol Rouge Cinsaut Red Hills Lake County California USA 14.5%, $35
Rich, velvety and dry with notes of cranberry, sour cherry, dried basil, prosciutto, pink peppercorn and vanilla.
2021 Two Shepherds Ancient Vine Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard Lodi California USA 12.2%, $34
Lean, racy, tart and dry with notes of raspberry, red currant, dried fig, green peppercorn, black tea and almond.
Chile
Chilean Cinsault
2021 De Martino Old Vine Cinsault Gallardia Itata Valley Chile 13.5%, $25
Mid-weight, slightly chewy and dry with notes of raspberry, cherry, red rose, candied violet and vanilla.
2020 De Martino Cinsault Viejas Tinajas Itata Valley Chile 13%, $35
Light, chewy and dry with notes of sour cherry, plum, fig, celery, cedar and vanilla.
2022 Los Vascos Primo Cinsault Itata Valley Chile 13.5%, $45
Mid-weight, fresh, tart and dry with notes of strawberry, cherry, rhubarb and mushroom.
South Africa
A.A. Badenhorst Cinsault
2021 Badenhorst Cinsault Ramnasgras Swartlandse South Africa
12%, $60
Light, tart and dry with notes of cherry, boysenberry, cedar, mushroom and dried herbs.
Lebanon
Lebanese Cinsault
2021 Musar Jeune Red Wine of Bekaa Valley Lebanon 13%, $27
Lean, tart and dry with notes of dark cherry, plum, violet, pink rose and cinnamon.
2021 Levantine de Musar Bekaa Valley Lebanon 14%, $34
Full, fresh, tart and dry with notes of mulberry, blueberry, red and pink rose, sea salt and vanilla.