Why Chenin Blanc May Be the World’s Most Versatile Wine
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Glasses of Chenin Blanc
Can one grape do it all? It sounds like an impossible task — except if that variety is Chenin Blanc. No wine region better demonstrates the versatility of Chenin than the Loire. From sparkling to dry to sweet, the Loire showcases Chenin Blanc’s depth and breadth.
Chenin is believed to have originated in Anjou, and its name comes from the Monastery of Montchenin. Today, it’s the most planted white grape, and the second-most planted variety of any color in the Loire.
Chenin Blanc is most common in the vineyards of Anjou and Touraine. The cool, oceanic climate of Anjou creates Chenins with tension and acidity. In Touraine, east-west traversing valleys create a series of microclimates, all of which are reflected in terroir-driven styles of Chenin.
Chenin blanc grapes from the Loire
The acidity in Chenin Blanc makes it ideal for producing sparkling wine. Crémant de Loire, which stretches across the vineyards of Anjou-Saumur and Touraine, celebrated its 50th anniversary as an appellation last year — a testament to its quality. While this traditional method sparkling wine might use Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, its prowess with Chenin makes it stand out from other sparkling wines worldwide. Wines like Château de Bois-Brinçon, Crémant de Loire (SRP: $29) show elegant orchard fruit notes and mousse-y, creamy bubbles, and rank high among the best value sparkling wines on the market.
Chenin’s chameleon-like qualities offer an array of still white wine styles. They can be crisp, full-bodied, or lush — Chenin runs the gamut. A platonic middle ground, Domaine de la Bergerie ‘Sous la Tonnelle Blanc,’ Anjou (SRP: $27), brings flavors of ripe orchard fruits, a medium body, plus a bright acidity to the glass.
Many Chenins from the Loire also have great aging potential. The Clau de Nell Chenin Blanc, Anjou (SRP: $130), is a study in white flowers and herbs, but with bright acidity and a creamy texture, it’s poised to evolve. The estate is certified biodynamic and shows the region’s commitment to sustainability. In fact, the entire Loire region endeavors to have 100 percent of its vineyards organic or environmentally certified by 2030.
Vouvray vineyard photo credit Depositphotos
No appellation better exemplifies Chenin’s range than Vouvray, located in the Touraine vineyards. Wines can be bone-dry, sweet, or even sparkling. Some of the most compelling versions are produced in a dry style, like Domaine Huet ‘Le Haut-Lieu’ (SRP: $38). The nose portrays notes of honey, but the palate takes you in a completely different direction. Instead of sweetness, you get melon, honeysuckle, and minerality.
Speaking of sweet wines, Chenin Blanc is the backbone of Loire’s best sweet wines. When affected by botrytis, it creates a beautifully honeyed character in the wine, but still lifted by bright acidity. The Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume 2005 is redolent of dried fruits and floral notes, with elegant almond flavors woven in.
The beauty of Chenin Blanc is that it can’t be categorized as one thing yet manages to stand out with true personality. Chenin Blanc from Loire is defined by its naturally high, vibrant acidity, fruit-forward character and incredible versatility, shaping everything from crisp sparkling and bone-dry whites to honeyed, long-lived dessert wines. There’s a style for everyone, and endless options to explore.