How Wise Grus is Honoring the Heritage of Rakija

“Živjeli!” A word heard all over Croatia, sometimes as a hearty roar from a crowd, sometimes in a quiet moment between friends. It’s an omnipresent greeting here, at breakfast, lunch and dinner, and most times in between. This is a nation that loves to raise a glass and proclaim, “to life”, and more often than not, the drink of choice is rakija. For the uninitiated, rakija is a distilled spirit brandy, often made from plums, but almost any fruit will do.

It was during one of these moments that Goran and Dora Kovačić experienced a moment of cultural clarity. Rakija is a national treasure that runs through the land and the roots of the orchards that spawn it, like lifeblood through the nation’s veins. And yet, thought Goran, as he lifted his glass 7 years ago, with so much of our national identity tied to this drink, why is it that there is so little of any quality to be found? Why do fine meals end, and we cheer newlyweds with a spirit that bears no semblance to the occasion?

Wise Grus

It was at that moment that an idea for a distillery that eventually became Wise Grus took flight. For those who encountered this spirit, especially a decade or more ago, it would often be as a nondescript and potent-smelling liquid trapped within an old water bottle. Starting in 2019, this husband-and-wife team set out to change every aspect of that perception.

With business backgrounds in finance, the Croatian couple looked at distinguishing their product, embarking upon a branding exercise before a still had even been warmed. Today, chatting to Dora in the brisk December sunshine of Slavonia, on the eastern end of Croatia, she admits it was a strange approach. They were so sure that they were on the right track that this endeavor would succeed that they made it happen. The context for their project was just as important – it was about Slavonia, it was about the small town of Daruvar, the cranes that make their home here (and are illustrated on every bottle), and the fruit that grows abundantly in the region’s orchards.

A Visit to the Distillery

At first glance, the scene at the distillery could not be more representative of Croatian country life had it been staged. A group of men gathered around warmly glowing embers, the heat cooking a suckling pig turning slowly on a spit. Between jokes, the men partook of some late- morning rakija, patiently waiting for their meal. Inside a converted barn stood a row of beautiful copper-topped stills, gleaming as they worked their magic.

On to the actual spirits - being of Croatian background myself and having just arrived from a few days in Hungary, I am very familiar with rakija, palinka, and their various European cousins. Goran throws open the doors of his impromptu tasting cabinet and starts with the most problematic of questions: What would you like to taste first? With nine staple brandies and other sweeter liqueurs available, this is not a simple question to answer. “What would you like me to taste?” I say, relishing this exercise and knowing I have a designated driver with me today.

Tasting notes

I start with the Loza Barrique, a grape-based grappa aged in Slavonian oak. Golden hued, it warms rather than burns on its way down, finishing with a slight caramel note, courtesy no doubt of the oak, which has also helped smooth out any rough edges.

What follows is a truly extraordinary palate stroll through the most aromatic of orchards. The quince brandy has beautiful floral aromas that trick the palate into expecting a sweeter end product. This is satisfyingly not the case, yet once again, there is not a trace of harsh alcohol. Eyeing out the remaining roster, I begin to suspect that I will need to be more selective with my next few choices, in case walking (and not driving) becomes my next concern.

Next up is the Tepka, or wild pear flavor referred to as “snow pear” in these parts. Introduced into the area in the 18th century based on a directive from Austrian Empress Maria Theresa, these trees with their white blossoms are synonymous with the region. Unlike the Pear William liqueurs, the Tepka is a typical rakija – sweet and floral on the nose, clean and warming on the finish.

My fourth, and final, tipple was one I had been anticipating for a while – the Pelinkovac. Typically, this is served as a digestif, and the garden variety can range from sweet to herbaceously bitter. Wise Grus, in typical fashion, is neither and all things in between. First on the nose and palate is a hint of menthol, followed by a verdant and pleasant bitterness with an extended minty finish. Wise Grus created 2 types of Pelinkovac, one of which includes gingko as an homage to Daruvar’s ginkgo tree, nicknamed Adam and known as the oldest tree in Croatia (and second oldest in Europe) at over 250 years old. This is quite possibly my favorite amaro on the planet – versatile, smooth, sophisticated, and above all delicious.

Outside the tasting room, we meet the young distiller, Kruno, who learned the craft at the hands of Dr Marin Mihaljević Žulj, from the University of Zagreb (who is also the palate behind the final rakija blends). The young distiller is almost sheepish when praised, though his finely honed craft rakija has garnered no fewer than 50 awards at various international spirits shows from San Francisco and London to NYC and Warsaw in the last two years alone. If you’re not planning a trip to Slavonia soon, you can find these fine brandies at their boutique store in the heart of Zagreb, failing which, several importers are distributing them across North America.

As we say goodbye, across the road, the rolling green fields beckon. This bucolic site is one of the next projects for this dynamic duo. They intend to move their distillery here, plant local fruit trees, start a vineyard, and build a restaurant with accommodation. Doing things the right way, for the right reasons, has been a successful approach, one that has given this duo the much-needed energy to continue promoting their love story to their hometown and country.

Travel, SpiritsMario StojanacJune 18, 2025croatia, amariComment