Vacation to Portugal Canceled? People Are Still Drinking Port

casks at the Taylor Fladgate visitors’ center, courtesy Taylor Fladgate

People have loved Port with dessert for centuries, but there are more refreshing ways to enjoy it at home

What does “comfort” mean to you? A cuddle with a pet or loved one? Loose-fitting pants? A grilled cheese sandwich? A hug? These days the latter is a rare commodity as we continue to social distance, so we look for the equivalent of a hug in other ways. It seems an increasing number of Americans see Port—the fortified wine from Portugal—as a way to get that hug from their glasses. In the month of April, Nielsen reported that retail Tawny Port sales were up 11.8% since March (when lockdown began in earnest in most parts of the world), and the category as a whole continues to grow.

In a recent article in the Drinks Business, Adrian Bridge, the CEO of The Fladgate Partnership (which owns Taylor’s, Croft, Krohn and Fonseca), recently attributed the uptick in Port retail sales to be “due to the fact the drink provides a mood-enhancing indulgence.”

And while that sip of comfort and perceived luxury in the safety of one’s home (without the need to drive anywhere after a big meal) may be the main reason, the rise in sales could also be attributed to travel restrictions further afield than the local bar. Before lockdown, Portugal’s Douro Valley was poised to be one of the top tourist destinations of 2020, but unfortunately canceling that sort of fun and adventure has been deemed one of the more effective ways to fight Coronavirus. Therefore, we look to other means of obtaining that taste of travel: If we can’t be there, pour it!

A bit of housekeeping here. I’ll be presenting the various styles of Port below, and some of the myths associated with them, as well as tips on how to serve and store them, and some Port cocktail recipes at the end. But before I get to that, the newbies might be wondering what Port is in the first place? Here’s a super simplified overview:

Port (a.k.a. Vinho de Porto) is a sweet or off dry (semi-sweet) style of wine (but don’t call it a “dessert” wine, more on that later) produced from overripe grapes—red or white—grown in Portugal’s Douro Valley in the regions of Baixo Corgo, Cima Corgo and Douro Superior.
Grape brandy is added to the wine to halt fermentation, which makes most Port slightly higher in alcohol than an average table wine, around 18 - 20% ABV.
Yes, Port styles can be produced outside of Portugal, the method isn’t classified, but for the purposes of this article, this is the fortified wine from Portugal from where it originated.
Why is so much Port named after Brits? In the 17th century British merchants took a liking to the style and found its hearty nature easy to ship back to the mainland intact, and therefore decided to set up estates along the Douro Valley to produce Port as an import business.

White Port

Though Port has been around since the 17th century, the white Porto style was only popularized in the 20th century, meant to be served at a full chill as an aperitif. (After all, refrigeration and ways to make ice had to be invented first.) It is produced in very much the same way as tawny or ruby Port (see below), though typically estates (quintas) produce them in much smaller quantities. White grapes that go into the Douro’s dry white wines (Arinto, Boal, Codega, Gouveio, Viosinho and others), harvested when overripe, are used for white Ports, and it is fortified with brandy from white grapes. Many white Ports tend to be released from blends of wines averaging no older than 10 years, matured in barrels or steel tanks. A small percentage are matured for longer periods, often released as single vintage (colheita) bottlings, though those can be quite expensive and harder to find.

White Port Serving and glassware

White Port, which is really more of a citrine yellow, is favored for its stone fruit and nutty characteristics. It’s all about refreshment, and should be served fully chilled in a regular wine glass or even a rocks glass, either neat or with a splash of soda or tonic on the rocks with a citrus twist. Once opened, keep these wines refrigerated and consume within 8 weeks for optimal flavor.

White Port Myth

There was a time not too long ago that most white Port suffered from the same bad publicity as blush wines, and were considered mass produced, cloying, jug-quality plonk meant only for those with a sweet tooth. The reason for the bad rap is that very little of the good stuff was released outside of Portugal and Europe, but the style is seeing more variety and distribution. White Port can be gorgeous nectar of excellent quality.

Ones to try:

Sandeman Apitiv Reserve: a blend of wines matured between 4 to 9 years, with a medium level of sweetness that is well balanced by zingy tropical (pineapple, mango) notes. Best on its own, but if you prefer bubbles, use soda water, or even some bitter lemon soda. (20% ABV, $22)

Taylor Fladgate Chip Dry, Extra Dry White Porto: This estate, established in 1692, is credited with being the first to perfect the aperitif style of Port in 1934. Grapes for the wine, (averaging around 5 years), predominantly Malvasia Fina, are grown in the Douro Superior. Its nutty and slightly oxidized aromas remind me of a dry Oloroso sherry, though it has that telltale apricot and honey Porto-ness too. (19.7% ABV, $20)

Rosé

Croft Pink is the first widely available rosé style Port, made from red Douro-grown grapes with minimal skin extraction that undergo a cold fermentation process. For those who prefer a lighter, juicier style of Port meant to be served with a chill, but without the nutty, oxidized qualities of white Port, this is a great warm weather, spritz-friendly option. (19.5% ABV, $20)

Ruby vs. Tawny vs. Vintage

The best way to remember the difference between these red grape styles is to think about what those words really mean, and how they would taste if put into liquid form. The grapes that go into these wines are similar between the styles, most often Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Cão and Tinta Barocca.

Vintage Ports are ruby Ports that are only produced in “declared” vintages (meaning the climate conditions allowed for the highest quality grapes grown in select vineyards in the Douro Valley, which doesn’t happen every year). They are deservedly well regarded for their remarkable combination of rarity, longevity, elegant sweetness, luxurious texture and long, balanced finish. Grapes for vintage Port are harvested at full ripeness. The wines spend only 2 to 3 years barrel aging, but they are bottled unfiltered, so it’s the additional cellar time (at least 10 to 15 years after bottling) that works its magic. Less than 5% of all Port is vintage, but these esteemed bottlings can last 50 years of more if kept in optimal cellar conditions. Decant for best results to avoid excess sediment in the glass. Here’s a handy guide for which vintages to look out for now, and when to drink them.

A tawny Port is a terrific value because these more prevalent and affordable styles tend to be matured 10 years or more when bottled, selected from a blend of the cellar’s best harvests. The age declaration on the label is the youngest wine in the blend, and they are slightly oxidized (thus a reddish brown color) from the extended barrel contact and exposure to oxygen. Expect nutty, honeyed, dried fruit and plummy, chocolatey flavors from these.

Most non vintage ruby Ports are blends of younger wines (4 - 7 years) that are youthful, juicy and redder in color. Expect them to taste of fresh berries and dried fruits, with a raisinated sweetness and sometimes a hint of oak spice or balsamic vinegar.

Oh, and you might also see Late-Bottled Vintage or LBV - so what’s that? Those are ruby Ports from a single year, bottled after aging between 4 to 6 years. Nice value if your wallet doesn’t allow for the full vintage option.

Red Port Myths

The whole “Bad things will happen if we don’t down this bottle IMMEDIATELY!!!!! Summon the Port police!” urgency comes from a strictly ruby Port standpoint. Because of their age and delicate nature, you really want to consume vintage Port within a day of opening (preferably all at once when opened, which is why it’s best to wait for the right moment and have some people to share it with).

However, tawnies and non-vintage variety rubies can last in the fridge for a couple of months once opened. Anita Musi, a wine consultant for Sandeman, suggests storing open bottles on the door of the refrigerator to prevent them from absorbing as many food aromas as they would in the middle of the fridge. Also, she states that it is a misconception that they go “bad” or “turn” if unrefrigerated or kept open for longer periods. The flavors and aromas will likely deteriorate, but they can’t make you sick or taste “off”—they just won’t taste as fresh as they would if stored properly (like vermouth or sherry). (You’re keeping those fresh and refrigerated also, right?) (Right?)

The Biggest Red Port Myth of All

The prevailing opinion is that Ports are cold weather wines that can only be served at room temperature after a meal as part of a dessert course, and that they only pair with sweet foods or rich cheeses like Stilton.

That’s a nice way to enjoy red Port, but not the only way. One of the most delightful summer treats is a ruby port served on the rocks with a lemon or orange twist, and this is delicious with savory snacks like smoked meats, salted almonds, olives, and sharp cheeses. Tawny port, especially a younger one, can also match well with a hearty, protein-rich meal like stews, roast duck and pork loin, even a burger, served at room temperature or with a slight chill.

Serving suggestions and glassware

It’s not necessary to have precious cordial glasses on hand to sip Port. Musi says to go ahead and serve it in a regular wine glass to get the full effect of the flavors and aromatics. Besides, swirling with those little glasses gets quite splashy and messy, and you don’t want to lose any precious drops.

Ruby and Tawny Ports to try:

Sandeman Founder’s Reserve: This ruby is a blend of different vintages from the estate’s cellar, averaging 5 years in maturity. This is one of those rubies that shape shifts nicely—chilled as an aperitif with a twist, in cocktails, with a splash of tonic or soda, with savory or sweet foods, or simply on its own at room temp. (20% ABV, $20)

Warre’s Heritage Ruby Port: from what is the first official British Port estate, established in 1670, comes this ruby made from grapes grown at Quinta da Cavadinha, Quinta do Retiro and Quinta da Telhada. The plush, dark fruit and spice flavors make it ideal for pairing with a salty cheese plate or some halvah. (19% ABV, $18)

Warre’s Otima 10 Year Tawny: Try this one side by side with the above ruby if you can. While the ruby is like a fresh blueberry and blackberry pie, this dusty pink-brown, young tawny shows bright blood orange, ripe cherry, black tea and dried apricots and dates with a nominally sweet finish. (20% ABV, $25)

Sandeman 20 Year Tawny: Some people go for the 30 Year for it’s earthier characteristics, some prefer the 10 Year for its fruit-forwardness. This is my favorite of the core Sandeman tawnies because a refreshing swath of acidity and espresso earthiness cuts its deep chocolatey richness, along with tangy flavors of dates, raisins, and figs. (20% ABV, $55)

Graham’s 30 Year Tawny: There’s a big jump in price for this one, but it’s well worth it for a special treat. I love the dark chocolate covered figginess of its front palate, with surprising aromas of orange blossom, marzipan and green tea, before it finishes with an elegant hint of musk. (20% ABV, $130)

Fonseca 2014 Late Bottled Unfiltered Vintage Port (LBV): It’s worth exploring this style—different vintages, different estates—if you have the means. I chose this bottle because it’s surprisingly affordable, but more importantly, it’s bottled straight out of the casks in all its glory like a traditional vintage Port. There’s a massive flavor explosion of dried and fresh fruits, candied sweetness, honeysuckle, anise and both dark and malted milk chocolate notes all happening at once. Definitely decant and strain this wine before pouring into a glass, and serve at room or cellar temperature. (20% ABV, $35)

Port Cocktails

Aside from summer spritzes with tonic or soda, I love ruby or young tawny Port as a sub for sweet/red vermouth in stirred cocktails like Manhattans and Negroni variations (use the same measurement of Port as you would the vermouth). I also think it’s fun to drizzle on top of a whiskey sour for a New York Sour variation. But I have to admit, I wouldn’t have considered an Espresso Martini, and now I don’t want one any other way.

Port Espresso Martini

courtesy Sandeman

2 oz. Sandeman 10 Year Tawny Port (ruby Port would work well here too)
1 ½ oz. Espresso Liqueur
1 ½ oz. Cream liqueur, milk, or non-dairy milk

Shake ingredients very well with ice until cold and frothy. Strain into a chilled Martini or coupe glass. Garnish with grated cinnamon and nutmeg if desired.

Groovy Tuesday

by Amanda Schuster

1.5 oz White Port
.25 oz Rhubarb liqueur (or sub with bar spoon of strawberry rhubarb jam)
4 to 5 red berries (strawberries, raspberries, currants, or combination)
3 fresh mint leaves
2 to 3 dashes Angostura bitters
soda water

Add all ingredients to a shaker except the soda. Muddle the berries till crushed. Shake with ice. Strain into a tall glass or double rocks glass over fresh ice and top with soda. Garnish with more mint if desired.

Opus in the Jungle

by Amanda Schuster

This stirred take on a Jungle Bird is not a musical reference, rather a tribute to Opus the Penguin (a flightless bird) from the Bloom County comic.

1 oz Croft Pink port
.75 oz aged rum
.5 oz pineapple rum
1 oz Campari or other bitter aperitivo
Garnish: lime twist, expressed and discarded

Build in a rocks glass with ice. Stir to combine. Express the lime over the drink and discard.

Featured, WineAmanda SchusterJuly 24, 2020port, white port, fortified wineComment