Creating a Greek Focused Bar Menu with Anthony Attanasio of Estiatorio Ornos
Anthony Attanasio photo courtesy of Mina Group
About 5 months ago, once plans were made clear for a revamp of the signature Michael Mina restaurant in San Francisco, it was clear the bar was going to have to change too. Anthony Attanasio, Lead Bartender was charged with putting together a Greek-focused bar menu with Mike Lay, Assistant Director of Bars of the Mina Group for Estiatorio Ornos.
The new restaurant concept is a partnership with Girair “Jerry” Goumroian and Chef Nikolaos Georgousis owners of a casual Greek restaurant in Las Vegas, and currently includes locations in both Miami and San Francisco. Named for Ornos Beach, the reimagined space in San Francisco is light and breezy with a lively bar that works well with a flexible menu with plenty of spreads and starters to enjoy with drinks. We spoke with Attanasio about the Greek spirits and how he approached the cocktail list.
The Spirits List
Grace Gin
“It’s a high-end gin that comes from Evia, the 2nd largest island after Crete. Greek neutral grain is infused with 13 botanicals –the Greek ones include myrtle leaves, orange blossoms, sea fennel, and pink pepper. I bring those up because they are all food-friendly and represent flavors found in Greece. It has salinity and savory notes. Works great in cocktails and at 45.5 ABV the longevity really comes through.”
Katsaros Brothers Tsipouro (aged)
“That’s a fun spirit, it’s a type of brandy, it’s made with pumace and leaves, everything from the vine. Families would take wine and take the residue and distill it. It was quite intense; it was pretty harsh, but in 1856 Katsaros began aging the tsipouro and included the juice and aged it for 3 years, showcasing the spirit, making it more smooth for sipping. It’s amber, has chocolate and flowers and stone fruit. It’s a good digestif like Cognac or Armagnac.”
Mastic Tears mastiha
“This is by far my favorite; it’s got to be the most unique. It’s from Eva distillery which is fairly new, made from the sap of the tree grown on Kios. after distillation, the pine flavor profile is prevalent but natural vegetation and citrus. It reminded me of cucumbers—bright vegetal yields well in cocktails. The trees are scored the mastic drips or mastica is collected. For 2500 years it’s been used for digestive and medicinal purposes. At 30% abv it’s a little bit viscous, but not thick, coats your palate. Has some texture to it. It worked well in the Scropino cocktail, helping to bridge the gap between sorbet and prosecco.”
2017 Berlin International Spirits Competition Greece Spirit of the Year
Mastic Tears with Lemon
“The lemon has an infusion using Greek lemons so some lemon acidity and sweetness, low 25% abv.”
Metaxa
“Another unique spirit, 5,7 and 12 star—the stars represent age. It can’t be compared to any other spirit, it’s a distillate-like brandy but it’s a blend of that plus muscat wine and a bouquet of Greek spices, herbs, and flowers. It’s been around since 1848 named for the founder. We wanted a niche product, essentially the 7 has more stone fruit, the 12 has a citrus, toffee, coffee, chocolate, and warm spices. We use the 5 stars and infuse it with herbs and flowers—clementine and hibiscus.”
Thrace ouzo
“I must have tasted at least 12 different ouzos, the anise flavor is dominant but it has light fruit flavors too. It’s a little more delicate. Can be served neat or in a cocktail.”
Rakomelo
“It’s a pretty fun liquor, a favorite on Crete used with raki. On Crete, they produce their own, with local honey, cloves, and cinnamon. A honey liquor but less sweetness and viscosity, the warm spices come through.”
Queen of Ithaca photo courtesy of MIna Group
Creating and Localizing the Cocktail List
“We hit the ground running and reached out to our distributors to find high-end but lesser-known Greek products. One was Pacific Edge, they import great stuff,” says Attanasio. He adds that the restaurant chefs were very involved in the cocktail creation. “The executive chef has the best palate, and chefs are involved in the tasting and bouncing of ideas. The chefs always work together with the bartenders especially during openings, they help with garnishes, obtaining vegetables, etc.”
The Miami cocktail list varies greatly from the San Francisco one. Consistency is important explains Attanasio, but so are the demographics. The San Francisco list features plenty of bourbon, cognac, and rye, while the Miami list features gin and vodka and tequila Blanco. Still, the goal with both is to try to use as many local products as possible, says Attanasio.
Frapa Glyko photo courtesy of MIna Group
Fruits, vegetables and herbs from Greek cuisine take a starring role in the drinks in San Francisco. Two perfect examples are the Queen of Ithaca, made with dill aquavit, sherry, ouzo, lime, and cucumber and the Frapa Glyko which combines tequila, campari, grapefruit brûlée, honey, and thyme which was based on a Greek dessert.
Gazoz photo courtesy of Mina Group
Creating Gazoz
Speaking of fruits and herbs, both feature prominently in the Gazoz. Never heard of Gazoz? “Gazoz was started by Benny Briga in Tel Aviv, it was an idea that blew my mind,” explains Attanasio, adding “It was originally just soda over syrups and herbs, but what makes it fun is the love and care that goes into it. The fruit we get from the farmer’s market. We break the fruit down and place it in mason jars and macerate with sugar for 72 hours, so there’s a small fermentation, and juice is extracted, those liquids are flavorful syrups, like a puree, more real fruit flavor and texture, so flavors of puree but texture of a spirit.”
Seasonal Gazoz photo courtesy of Mina Group
To make them into drinks, Attanasio says they combine the fermented liquid with a low abv spirit, such as a white port, white vermouth, or a glass of wine, sometimes adding cardamom syrup and always plenty of soda water. A lush bouquet of herbs is selected for aroma and used as a garnish adding to the feeling that while you may be in heart of San Francisco’s financial district, your senses will make you believe you’re in Greece.