Get to know Albariño with Bottles From Native Spain and Beyond

photo by Oliver Collet via Unsplash

Albariño is everything you crave in a food-friendly wine

Take riesling’s propensity for peachiness, add the zesty lemon and lime flavors signature in sauvignon blanc, throw in the tropical fruit aromas found in an unoaked chard and add a smidge of the salinity present in whites like vermentino, muscadet and assyrtiko and what do you get? Albariño, Spain’s crisp, crowd-pleasing wine that’s now taking a global jaunt.

In its native home, albariño is grown in Rias Baixas (“REE-us BYE-shus”), an appellation in Galicia in the northwestern section of the country influenced by the briny winds coming off the Atlantic and sea fog hovering over the vineyards. High humidity and frequent rainfall during the growing season can be challenging for winemakers, but on the plus side, Galicia is known for its oysters and other local seafood, meaning that pairings are some of the best examples in the world of “if it grows together it goes together.” 

If your mouth is watering and you are ready to get shucking and cracking, you’re not alone. “Albariño’s unique ripe citrus-peach flavors, sometimes with hints of crunchy melon and sea air, were made to go with all the beautiful fruits de mer,” says advanced sommelier Elli Benchimol. “It’s versatile, has the citrus and stone fruit component that people love pinot grigio for but without the bitterness, and with more complexity.” She recalls how well it went with langoustines and razor clams outdoors as a casual restaurant in Rias Baixas. 

But let’s get back to a little bit more about the wine itself. Albariño is usually lightly-pressed and left on the skins for several days to boost aromatics before fermentation. While barrel and malolactic fermentation are less common practices since the intended style is vibrant and youthful, wines often see extended contact on the lees to enhance aromas and flavors, add body and mouthfeel, and maintain freshness.

courtesy Rias Baixas Wines

In Rias Baixas (and to some extent beyond), the wines can be categorized into two main styles according to New York-based master sommelier Alexander LaPratt and founder of Atrium DUMBO: a light, crisp, tart version and another that’s riper, juicier and fuller in body. In the former he notices hints of Granny Smith apple, lemon zest, apricot and white grapefruit, while the latter sees more green pear, orange zest, pink grapefruit, peach and passionfruit. “Both are accented with sea salt, citrus blossoms, lemongrass, juicy fruit gum and sweet herbs like cilantro,” he points out. “[It] really depends on the goals of the winemaker, ripeness of the grape and lees influence, which will give a touch of bread dough/stale beer/cheese rind to the wine.”

The racier, mineral-driven style is perfect for seafood or vegetable ceviche, says sommelier and educator Kat Thomas. And as much as Benchimol swoons when she recalls that perfect evening of albariño and shellfish on that patio in Galicia, she also loves sipping it with grilled olive oil-brushed peaches atop a lemon arugula salad with goat cheese. LaPratt also recommends it with cucumber gazpacho and chicken tacos with mango salsa.

If you want to seek out albariño in other areas of the world, you don’t need to start any farther than across the border, where it’s produced in Portugal’s Vinho Verde region and labeled as alvariñho. (Don’t confuse that with the lower-alcohol, spritzy wines labeled Vinho Verde; alvariñho has more body, aroma and flavor intensity.) LaPratt’s favorite Portuguese producer is Soalheiro for high-quality, terroir-driven offerings. He also looks to California’s Santa Barbara appellation, where a handful of winemakers are releasing Rias Baixas-style albariño. Niven Family Vineyards is one a handful of wineries in California’s Edna Valley that uses grapes grown a few miles from the Pacific Ocean, a practice that reflects Galicia’s maritime influence. Benchimol cites Maryland’s Black Ankle Vineyards makes a particularly fun expression, with softer, less tart fruit, and a smattering of wineries in Virginia including Cana—whose 2018 Albariño won Gold in the 2019 NY International Wine Competition—have had success with it as well.

LaPratt believes that it’s a trending white wine with good reason, as it’s consistent, delicious, affordable and food-friendly. And as Benchimol points out it’s also quite lovely away from the table. “Overall the best albariño pairing is...sitting outside on a warm evening with your small bubble of quarantined friends and family.”

¡Salud!

photo by Celina Albetz via Unsplash

Albariño bottle to try from Spain and around the world

Pazo Barrantes Albariño 2018 ($19) is a single vineyard wine from Rias Baixas that shows aromas of pear, peach nectar and yellow flowers, and a full-bodied yet fresh palate with a long finish.

Altos de Torona Albariño 2018 ($17) comes on bracingly dry and austere, with tart citrus but then becomes mouthwateringly savory on the palate with apricot and a touch of salinity. 

Cana Vineyards and Winery Albariño 2018 ($25): this NYIWC gold medal-winning Virginia expression has classic notes of citrus and peach and an easy-drinking style.

Niven Family Estates Tangent Albariño 2018 ($20) is made in California’s Edna Valley with grapes grown five miles from the Pacific Ocean, with aromas of lemon, peach and rose and vibrant acidity and salinity on the palate.

Black Ankle Vineyards Albariño 2019 ($34) is from one of Maryand’s top wineries, with flavors of honeydew, citrus zest and an intriguing line of minerality. 

Peloton Cellars Squire Canyon Albariño 2017 ($29) is produced in California’s San Luis Obispo, with grapes grown a few miles from the ocean. It has aromas of elderberry, orange blossom, nectarine and apricot and a finish of wet stone and peach.